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Iris florentina, Iris pallida, Iris germanica

Common Names: Orris Root, Orris Butter, Beurre d’Iris, Orris Absolute

Description:
Orris is derived from the aged rhizomes (rootstock) of the iris plant—primarily Iris pallida and Iris florentina. The roots are aged for a minimum of three years to develop their fragrance, which is then extracted through several methods to yield various perfumery materials. Rich in α-irones, the aromatic compounds responsible for its violet-like, powdery aroma, orris is one of the most prized and expensive materials in natural perfumery.

Types of Orris Extracts

• Orris Butter (Beurre d’Iris):
  Obtained by steam distillation of aged roots. Despite the term "butter," it is not a true concrete, but a semi-solid, creamy mass.
  Aroma: Warm, sweet, powdery, violet-like; long-lasting and elegant.
  Regions: France, Italy, Morocco

• Orris Absolute:
  Extracted via solvent washing of orris butter, followed by careful vacuum distillation.
  Appearance: Pale yellow liquid.
  Aroma: Delicate, floral, faintly woody; used sparingly due to rarity and cost.

• Orris Resinoid ("Resin"):
  Produced by solvent extraction (e.g., with ethanol) from aged root.
  Texture: Honey-like, viscous.
  Note: Often more affordable than butter or absolute. Technically a concrete but called a "resin" due to its texture.

• Orris Powder:
  Ground aged root used in cosmetics, herbal sachets, and potpourri.
  Functions as a fixative and mild fragrance.

Descriptive Language Categories

Note Family: Floral, Powdery, Woody, Balsamic

Texture: Silky, creamy, buttery, powder-dry

Emotion: Elegant, nostalgic, calming, luxurious

Analogy: A velvet glove, vintage lipstick case, sunlit dressing table

Uses in Perfumery:

• Highly valued as a fixative and heart-to-base note component

• Imparts depth, elegance, and longevity to floral compositions

• Often used in violet, chypre, and aldehydic blends

Extraction Methods:

• Steam Distillation (for butter)

• Solvent Extraction (for resinoid and absolute)

Unique Characteristics:

• Requires 3+ years of aging to develop fragrance

• One of the most costly and labor-intensive natural materials

• Often substituted with synthetic irones due to cost

Tags: orris, iris, beurre d’iris, alpha-irones, iris pallida, violet note, powdery floral