Natural Perfume Academy Main Glossary
Welcome to the Natural Perfumery Glossary
The Natural Perfumery Glossary is a comprehensive public resource designed for all natural perfumers, whether you're a seasoned professional or just beginning your journey. This glossary serves as an educational tool, offering detailed definitions and insights into a wide range of natural perfume materials and terms.
Our entries cover various aspects crucial to the art and science of natural perfumery, including:
- Description and Characteristics: Detailed profiles of natural ingredients, including their origins, extraction methods, and unique olfactory qualities.
- Blending Suggestions: Insights into what other materials a particular ingredient pairs well with, helping you create harmonious and well-rounded compositions.
- Usage and Applications: Practical advice on how to incorporate each ingredient into your perfume creations.
- Safety and Regulatory Issues: Important information on the safe use of materials, including any relevant regulatory considerations.
At the Natural Perfume Academy, we are committed to fostering a deep understanding of natural perfumery through education and certification. Our glossary is a testament to this commitment, providing a valuable reference to support your ongoing learning and mastery of natural perfume making. Explore the glossary to enhance your knowledge and craft exquisite, all-natural fragrances with confidence.
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CamphoraceousTitle: Camphoraceous
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CarnationTitle: Carnation Absolute
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Carrier OilTitle: Carrier Oil
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CassiaTitle: Cassia (Cinnamomum cassia)Description: Cassia, also known as Chinese cinnamon, is derived from the bark of the Cinnamomum cassia tree. This tree is native to China and the bark is typically harvested in the autumn when the aromatic compounds are at their peak. Extraction Method: The essential oil of cassia is obtained through steam distillation of the bark. This process results in a potent, spicy, and warm oil that is rich in cinnamaldehyde, which gives cassia its characteristic fragrance. Characteristics: Cassia essential oil has a warm, sweet, and spicy aroma that is very similar to cinnamon but stronger and more intense. The oil is typically a golden yellow to reddish-brown color and is known for its robustness and tenacity. Uses in Natural Perfumery: In natural perfumery, cassia is valued for its rich and complex scent profile. It is often used to impart warm and spicy notes to oriental and gourmand fragrances. Due to its strong aroma, cassia is typically used in small amounts as a base note or heart note to add depth and warmth to a composition. Blending Suggestions: Cassia blends well with other spice oils such as clove, nutmeg, and ginger. It also complements the sweetness of vanilla and the richness of patchouli and sandalwood. In floral compositions, cassia can add an exotic and spicy undertone when used judiciously. Safety Considerations: Cassia essential oil is very potent and can be a skin irritant if used undiluted. It should always be diluted in a carrier oil and used in low concentrations in perfumery. Additionally, it is important to perform a patch test to ensure there are no allergic reactions. Reference: Steffen Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin Cassia, with its warm and spicy aroma, is a powerful and evocative ingredient in the natural perfumer's palette, capable of adding depth and complexity to a wide range of fragrance compositions. | |
Champaca or Champa AbsoluteTitle: Champaca Absolute (Michelia champaca)Description: Champa absolute, derived from the flowers of Michelia champaca, is an exotic, rich, and deeply floral natural perfumery material. It is known for its captivating scent that combines warm caramel, peppery vanilla, and orchid notes, reminiscent of carnation and tuberose. Extraction Method: The absolute is obtained by extracting the concrete, which is produced through solvent extraction of the yellow, magnolia-like flowers. These flowers grow on a medium-sized tree native to Indonesia, India, and Madagascar. In addition to the absolute, a CO2 extract of champaca is also available, which emphasizes the spicy caramel notes over the lily-type floral scent. Characteristics: Champa absolute is celebrated for its unique fragrance profile. Steffen Arctander describes it as "delicately dry-floral," with nuances that remind one of orange flowers, ylang-ylang, carnation, and tearose. The absolute has a warm, deep floral aroma, while the CO2 extract is spicier and more caramel-like. Uses in Natural Perfumery: In natural perfumery, champaca absolute is favored for its rich, exotic floral scent. It adds depth and complexity to floral compositions and blends exceptionally well with other floral notes such as carnation and rose. It is ideal for creating perfumes with an oriental or floral character. Blending Suggestions: Champa absolute blends harmoniously with carnation, rose, and other delicate floral notes. It works well with fixatives that do not overpower its delicate scent, such as sandalwood, araucaria, benzoin, ambrette, and ambergris. In dilution, it reveals a soft, floral tea-like note. Reference: Steffen Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin, p.160 Champa absolute, with its rich and multifaceted floral aroma, is a valuable ingredient for natural perfumers seeking to create luxurious and exotic fragrance compositions. | ||
ChordTitle: ChordDescription: A chord in perfumery, also known as an accord, refers to a harmonious combination of three or more aromatic ingredients that blend together to create a single, unified essence. This combination is designed to achieve a specific scent profile that is greater than the sum of its parts. Characteristics:
Usage in Natural Perfumery: In natural perfumery, chords are used to build the foundation of a fragrance. They serve as the backbone of the perfume, around which other notes are layered to create a complex and multi-dimensional scent. Natural perfumers often craft chords from essential oils, absolutes, and other natural extracts to achieve the desired olfactory effect. Examples:
Importance: Creating effective chords is a fundamental skill in perfumery. It requires an understanding of how different scents interact and complement each other. Mastering the art of blending chords allows perfumers to craft intricate and captivating fragrances. A chord, therefore, is not just a random mixture of scents, but a carefully constructed combination that provides a solid foundation and enhances the overall perfume composition. | ||
ChypreTitle: ChypreDescription: Chypre is a classic fragrance family characterized by a dominating blend of bergamot and oakmoss, rounded off with rich, woody essences such as patchouli and labdanum. The name "Chypre" comes from the French word for Cyprus, inspired by the Mediterranean island where these aromatic materials were traditionally sourced. Characteristics:
Usage in Natural Perfumery: In natural perfumery, chypre fragrances are valued for their sophistication and complexity. Perfumers use natural extracts and essential oils to craft these multifaceted scents, adhering to traditional methods and ingredients. Composition:
Examples:
Importance: Chypre fragrances are celebrated for their balance and longevity. The interplay between the fresh top notes and the rich, earthy base creates a dynamic and enduring scent profile. These fragrances often evolve over time, revealing different facets as they dry down. Ref: Steffen Arctander; Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin A well-crafted chypre fragrance showcases the art of blending natural materials to create a harmonious and sophisticated scent experience. | ||
Citrus NotesTitle: Citrus NotesDescription: Citrus notes refer to the bright, fresh, and uplifting fragrances derived from the peel, leaves, and sometimes the flowers of various citrus fruits. These notes are often used in natural perfumery to add a sparkling and refreshing top note to fragrance compositions. Characteristics:
Common Citrus Essences:
Uses in Natural Perfumery:
Benefits:
Example Combinations:
Noteworthy Points:
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ClassicTitle: ClassicA scent that follows a traditional perfumery template, utilising a higher percentage of floral notes to create an essence with timeless appeal. Classic perfumes often adhere to well-established fragrance structures and are celebrated for their enduring elegance and refined compositions. They typically include a harmonious blend of top, middle, and base notes, with a focus on florals such as rose, jasmine, and violet, evoking a sense of nostalgia and sophistication. | ||