Title: Carnation Absolute

  • Botanical Name: Dianthus caryophyllus

  • Production Method: Carnation absolute is produced by an unusual method of alcohol washing of the concrete, which is obtained through the solvent extraction of the flowers. While the flowers are grown in many European countries and the United States, the concrete is exclusively made in France.

  • Yield and Cost: The yield from the concrete is low, making it an expensive oil. Due to its high cost, carnation absolute is frequently adulterated.

  • Characteristics:

    • Appearance: Olive green to green or orange-brown, viscous liquid.
    • Odor Profile: Initially, the fragrance of carnation absolute does not immediately remind one of carnations, presenting a more herbal scent. However, after a few moments, the fragrance of freshly cut carnation flowers emerges, which is sweet and heavy. It has a very sweet, honey-like, somewhat herbaceous, heavy, and tenacious fragrance. In high dilutions (5% or weaker), it more closely resembles the scent of live flowers.
  • Uses in Natural Perfumery:

    • Blending: Carnation absolute pairs exceptionally well with clove, creating a harmonious and complementary note. This combination enhances the sweet and spicy profile in perfume compositions.
    • Perfume Types: Often used in floral and oriental compositions, carnation absolute adds depth, sweetness, and complexity to the blend. It is valued for its ability to provide a rich, honeyed, and herbaceous nuance to perfumes.
  • Aromatic Notes:

    • Top Note: Herbal
    • Middle Note: Sweet, floral (carnation-like)
    • Base Note: Honey-like, heavy, tenacious
  • Country of Origin: The flowers are grown in various European countries and the United States, with concrete production primarily in France.

  • Historical and Traditional Uses: Carnation has been valued for its distinctive fragrance and is a classic ingredient in many traditional perfumes. It has a long history of use in European perfumery and continues to be a treasured component in natural perfumery.

  • References:

    • Steffen Arctander: "Carnation is an olive green to green or orange-brown, viscous liquid of very sweet, honey-like, somewhat herbaceous, heavy, and tenacious fragrance, reminiscent of the scent of the live flowers only to a certain degree and only in high dilutions (5% or weaker)." (Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin, p.128)

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