Natural Perfume Academy Main Glossary

According to Steffen Arctander in Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural origin: " Part of the "romance" or "thrill" in perfumery work lies in the fact that, not only are all the materials different in odor but hardly ever will two perfumers give identical descriptions of the same material or the same perfume"

relating to the sense of smell

Title: Opoponax 

Opoponax, derived from the Commiphora erythraea tree which is native to parts of Africa, is a prized ingredient in natural perfumery. The resin itself is very dark red, rich, sweet, and highly aromatic with distinctive resinous and animalic notes.

Opoponax Resinoid is primarily used as a fixative in perfumes, especially in oriental and mossy forest-based fragrances. It anchors and enhances other scent components, adding depth and longevity.

High-grade Opoponax Essential Oil is an excellent alternative for those unable to prepare their own resinoid. When selecting this oil, ensure it is derived from quality opoponax resin. Although closely related to myrrh, opoponax is smoky, spicier and more animalic, while myrrh is fresher and cleaner. Due to its potent nature, opoponax should be used sparingly to avoid overpowering a fragrance blend.

Pairing with Other Natural Perfumery Notes:
Opoponax blends beautifully with a variety of natural notes, including:

• Citrus: Bergamot, sweet orange, and lemon
• Floral: Jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang
• Spices: Cinnamon, clove, and cardamom
• Woods: Sandalwood, cedarwood, and patchouli
• Resins: Frankincense, myrrh, and benzoin
• Herbal: Lavender, sage, and thyme

These combinations can create rich, complex fragrances with a warm, earthy, and sensual character.

system of storing bottles of perfume making materials typified by stepped shelving

typified by amber notes and spice

The powdered aged root is used in cosmetic preparations and as a fixative in herbal sachets and pot pourri.

Orris absolute is one the most expensive perfumery materials and is rarely found in todays perfumes. The absolute is extracted by solvent washing the orris butter from which the resulting liquid absolute is carefully vacuum distilled. Orris absolute is described as a very pale yellow oil with a delicate floral smell.

Orris concrete is produced by steam distillation of the prepared orris root which have been aged 3 years. Because it is steam distilled it is not technically a concrete, rather it is so called because of its solid consistency.

Orris butter is produced in France, Italy and Morocco.

The smell of aged orris is warm, sweet and violet like due to the high percentage of alpha-irones it contains.

Orris resin, which is extracted from the aged root using a solvent like ethyl alcohol, is technically a true concrete. It is called a resin due to it honey like consistency. The 'resin' is cheaper than the steam distilled butter.

Sources: Steffen Arctander's Perfume and Flavor materials of natural origin.