Common Names: Orris Root, Orris Butter, Beurre d’Iris, Orris Absolute
Description:
Orris is derived from the aged rhizomes (rootstock) of the iris plant—primarily Iris pallida and Iris florentina. The roots are aged for a minimum of three years to develop their fragrance, which is then extracted through several methods to yield various perfumery materials. Rich in α-irones, the aromatic compounds responsible for its violet-like, powdery aroma, orris is one of the most prized and expensive materials in natural perfumery.
Types of Orris Extracts
Orris Butter (Beurre d’Iris):
Obtained by steam distillation of aged roots. Despite the term "butter," it is not a true concrete, but a semi-solid, creamy mass. Aroma: Warm, sweet, powdery, violet-like; long-lasting and elegant. Regions: France, Italy, Morocco
Orris Absolute:
Extracted via solvent washing of orris butter, followed by careful vacuum distillation. Appearance: Pale yellow liquid. Aroma: Delicate, floral, faintly woody; used sparingly due to rarity and cost.
Orris Resinoid ("Resin"):
Produced by solvent extraction (e.g., with ethanol) from aged root. Texture: Honey-like, viscous. Note: Often more affordable than butter or absolute. Technically a concrete but called a "resin" due to its texture.
Orris Powder:
Ground aged root used in cosmetics, herbal sachets, and potpourri.
Functions as a fixative and mild fragrance.
Descriptive Language Categories
Note Family: Floral, Powdery, Woody, Balsamic
Texture: Silky, creamy, buttery, powder-dry
Emotion: Elegant, nostalgic, calming, luxurious
Analogy: A velvet glove, vintage lipstick case, sunlit dressing table
Uses in Perfumery:
Highly valued as a fixative and heart-to-base note component
Imparts depth, elegance, and longevity to floral compositions
Often used in violet, chypre, and aldehydic blends
Extraction Methods:
Steam Distillation (for butter)
Solvent Extraction (for resinoid and absolute)
Unique Characteristics:
Requires 3+ years of aging to develop fragrance
One of the most costly and labor-intensive natural materials
Often substituted with synthetic irones due to cost
