Natural Perfume Academy Main Glossary

Title: Destructive Distillation

In the realm of natural perfumery, destructive distillation refers to the process of heating natural materials such as seashells, woods, or resins in the absence of air to break them down into volatile compounds. This method involves intentionally burning the material, resulting in the formation of unique aromatic substances with distinct smoky, leathery, and sometimes tar-like bouquets. These materials can add depth and complexity to a fragrance, often imparting a rugged, earthy, or mysterious quality.

• Seashells: When subjected to destructive distillation, seashells can produce a unique marine, smoky aroma.
• Woods: The process can yield rich, smoky, and leathery notes, commonly found in materials like birch tar.
• Resins: Resins like frankincense or myrrh can develop intensified, smoky, and balsamic scents through this method.

Destructive distillation is a technique that transforms the raw natural material into a more complex and concentrated aromatic substance, often used to create deep, enduring base notes in natural perfumery compositions.

Title: Distillate

In the context of natural perfumery, a distillate is the aromatic liquid that results from the process of distillation. This process involves heating botanicals such as flowers, leaves, wood, or resins to extract their essential oils. As the material is heated, the steam carries the volatile compounds through a condenser where they are cooled and collected as a liquid. This liquid, the distillate, contains the concentrated essence of the original plant material.

Distillation has a long history and is one of the oldest methods of extracting aromatic compounds, dating back to ancient civilisations. The technique was notably refined by Tapputi-Belatekallim, a Mesopotamian perfumer and chemist who is often considered one of the first recorded practitioners of distillation around 1200 BCE. Tapputi's methods involved the use of a still and other rudimentary distillation apparatus to produce fragrant oils and waters.

In natural perfumery today, distillates are prized for their purity and the richness of their scent profiles. Commonly distilled materials include:

• Roses: Producing rose water and rose essential oil.
• Lavender: Yielding lavender essential oil.
• Sandalwood: Resulting in sandalwood essential oil.
• Frankincense: Producing frankincense essential oil from resin.

The quality of a distillate can be influenced by factors such as the distillation method, the quality of the raw materials, and the expertise of the distiller. High-quality distillates are essential for creating perfumes with true-to-nature scents and therapeutic properties.

Title: Distillation

Distillation is a crucial process in natural perfumery, involving the separation and extraction of aromatic compounds from botanical materials through the use of heated water. This method has been used since ancient times to create essential oils and hydrosols (floral waters) from a variety of plant materials, including flowers, leaves, wood, and resins.

The distillation process involves heating water to produce steam, which passes through the botanical material. The heat and steam cause the volatile aromatic compounds to evaporate and then condense into liquid form as they cool. The resulting liquid, known as the distillate, contains the concentrated essence of the plant.

There are several types of distillation used in perfumery:

1. Steam Distillation: The most common method, where steam is passed through the plant material, carrying the volatile compounds into a cooling chamber where they condense into a mixture of essential oil and water. The essential oil is then separated from the water.

2. Hydro Distillation: This method involves submerging the plant material directly in water, which is then heated to produce steam. The steam rises, carrying the aromatic compounds with it, which are then condensed and collected.

3. Destructive Distillation: A less common method that involves heating materials such as seashells, woods, or resins to the point of burning, resulting in a material with a smoky, leathery bouquet. This technique intentionally alters the chemical composition of the original material to produce unique aromatic compounds.

Historically, distillation has been practiced for thousands of years, with evidence of its use in ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, and Persia. One of the earliest recorded distillers was Tapputi-Belatekallim, a Mesopotamian perfumer and chemist who lived around 1200 BCE. Her techniques laid the foundation for modern distillation practices.

Distillation remains a fundamental technique in the creation of natural perfumes, valued for its ability to produce pure, high-quality essential oils that capture the true essence of the original botanical material.

Title: Dry Down: 

The final stage of a perfume’s development on the skin, where the base or bottom notes become most prominent and enduring. This phase occurs after the initial top notes have evaporated and the heart notes have mellowed. In natural perfumery, dry down reveals the deep, rich scents derived from materials like resins, woods, and musks, which are known for their longevity and stability. These base notes provide the lasting impression of the fragrance, creating a signature scent that can linger for hours. The art of crafting a well-balanced dry down is crucial for natural perfumers, as it ensures the perfume evolves beautifully over time, maintaining its complexity and allure.