Natural Perfume Academy Main Glossary

Title: Concrete - (pictured Bulgarian Rose concrete)

Concretes are known for their rich, full-bodied aroma, capturing a wide spectrum of the plant's scent profile, including some of the more delicate and volatile top notes that may be lost in steam distillation. They are typically used as an intermediary product in the production of absolutes, which are further refined to remove the waxes and non-fragrant components.

Due to their concentrated nature, concretes are used sparingly in natural perfumery, providing depth and longevity to fragrance compositions. They are particularly valued for their ability to impart a true-to-nature scent, closely resembling the aroma of the fresh plant material. Concretes can be used directly in perfumery or further processed to obtain an absolute, which is a more refined and liquid form of the essence.

In summary, concrete is a solvent-extracted, waxy substance from botanical materials, prized for its rich and authentic aromatic properties in natural perfumery.

Title: Creamy

In the context of natural perfumery, the term "creamy" typically refers to a rich, smooth note that evokes a sense of silkiness and sensuality. This luxurious quality often carries a subtly sweet undertone, adding to the overall richness and depth of a fragrance. Creamy notes can derive from various natural sources:

• Vanilla: Known for its warm, sweet, and comforting scent, vanilla imparts a velvety smoothness to perfumes.
• Sandalwood: This precious wood adds a soft, woody creaminess, often enhancing the longevity and complexity of a fragrance.
• Coconut: With its tropical, milky aroma, coconut brings a luscious, exotic creaminess to perfumery blends.
• Lush Florals: Flowers like jasmine and frangipani naturally possess nectarous, creamy qualities, contributing to the opulent and indulgent character of a perfume.

Creamy notes are often used to balance and round out compositions, providing a sensual, enveloping experience that enhances the overall fragrance profile.

Title: Cumin

Botanical Name: Cuminum cyminum

Description: Cumin is an aromatic spice derived from the dried seeds of the Cuminum cyminum plant, belonging to the Apiaceae family. Known for its distinctive warm, earthy, and slightly bitter aroma, cumin has been utilised in various cultures for its culinary, medicinal, and perfumery purposes.

Historical Context in Perfumery: In ancient perfumery, cumin was valued for its potent and lingering scent, which added depth and warmth to fragrance compositions. It was often used in combination with other spices and resins to create complex and exotic perfumes. Ancient civilisations such as the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans incorporated cumin into their perfumery practices, recognising its ability to enhance the aromatic profile of their creations.

Extraction Method: The essential oil of cumin is typically extracted through steam distillation of the seeds. This process yields an oil rich in aromatic compounds, including cuminaldehyde, which contributes to its characteristic scent.

Aromatic Profile: Cumin essential oil has a strong, spicy, and slightly sweet aroma with a warm, nutty undertone. Its scent is both penetrating and long-lasting, making it a valuable component in natural perfume blends.

Uses in Natural Perfumery:

• Base Note: Cumin is often used as a base note in natural perfumery, providing a warm and grounding foundation for more volatile top and middle notes.
• Spicy Accents: Its spicy and earthy scent can add complexity and intrigue to perfumes, especially in oriental and exotic fragrance blends.
• Complementary Blending: Cumin pairs well with other spices like coriander and cardamom, as well as with resins like frankincense and myrrh, creating rich and multifaceted fragrances.

Cultural Significance: Beyond its use in perfumery, cumin has held cultural and medicinal significance across various ancient societies. It was often used in rituals and ceremonies and believed to possess protective and healing properties.

Modern Usage: Today, cumin essential oil continues to be a cherished ingredient in natural perfumery, appreciated for its unique aroma and its ability to evoke a sense of warmth and tradition. It is used sparingly due to its potent scent but remains an important component in the palette of natural perfumers.

By understanding the historical and aromatic significance of cumin, modern natural perfumers can create fragrances that pay homage to ancient traditions while appealing to contemporary olfactory preferences.

Title: Destructive Distillation

In the realm of natural perfumery, destructive distillation refers to the process of heating natural materials such as seashells, woods, or resins in the absence of air to break them down into volatile compounds. This method involves intentionally burning the material, resulting in the formation of unique aromatic substances with distinct smoky, leathery, and sometimes tar-like bouquets. These materials can add depth and complexity to a fragrance, often imparting a rugged, earthy, or mysterious quality.

• Seashells: When subjected to destructive distillation, seashells can produce a unique marine, smoky aroma.
• Woods: The process can yield rich, smoky, and leathery notes, commonly found in materials like birch tar.
• Resins: Resins like frankincense or myrrh can develop intensified, smoky, and balsamic scents through this method.

Destructive distillation is a technique that transforms the raw natural material into a more complex and concentrated aromatic substance, often used to create deep, enduring base notes in natural perfumery compositions.

Title: Distillate

In the context of natural perfumery, a distillate is the aromatic liquid that results from the process of distillation. This process involves heating botanicals such as flowers, leaves, wood, or resins to extract their essential oils. As the material is heated, the steam carries the volatile compounds through a condenser where they are cooled and collected as a liquid. This liquid, the distillate, contains the concentrated essence of the original plant material.

Distillation has a long history and is one of the oldest methods of extracting aromatic compounds, dating back to ancient civilisations. The technique was notably refined by Tapputi-Belatekallim, a Mesopotamian perfumer and chemist who is often considered one of the first recorded practitioners of distillation around 1200 BCE. Tapputi's methods involved the use of a still and other rudimentary distillation apparatus to produce fragrant oils and waters.

In natural perfumery today, distillates are prized for their purity and the richness of their scent profiles. Commonly distilled materials include:

• Roses: Producing rose water and rose essential oil.
• Lavender: Yielding lavender essential oil.
• Sandalwood: Resulting in sandalwood essential oil.
• Frankincense: Producing frankincense essential oil from resin.

The quality of a distillate can be influenced by factors such as the distillation method, the quality of the raw materials, and the expertise of the distiller. High-quality distillates are essential for creating perfumes with true-to-nature scents and therapeutic properties.

Title: Distillation

Distillation is a crucial process in natural perfumery, involving the separation and extraction of aromatic compounds from botanical materials through the use of heated water. This method has been used since ancient times to create essential oils and hydrosols (floral waters) from a variety of plant materials, including flowers, leaves, wood, and resins.

The distillation process involves heating water to produce steam, which passes through the botanical material. The heat and steam cause the volatile aromatic compounds to evaporate and then condense into liquid form as they cool. The resulting liquid, known as the distillate, contains the concentrated essence of the plant.

There are several types of distillation used in perfumery:

1. Steam Distillation: The most common method, where steam is passed through the plant material, carrying the volatile compounds into a cooling chamber where they condense into a mixture of essential oil and water. The essential oil is then separated from the water.

2. Hydro Distillation: This method involves submerging the plant material directly in water, which is then heated to produce steam. The steam rises, carrying the aromatic compounds with it, which are then condensed and collected.

3. Destructive Distillation: A less common method that involves heating materials such as seashells, woods, or resins to the point of burning, resulting in a material with a smoky, leathery bouquet. This technique intentionally alters the chemical composition of the original material to produce unique aromatic compounds.

Historically, distillation has been practiced for thousands of years, with evidence of its use in ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, and Persia. One of the earliest recorded distillers was Tapputi-Belatekallim, a Mesopotamian perfumer and chemist who lived around 1200 BCE. Her techniques laid the foundation for modern distillation practices.

Distillation remains a fundamental technique in the creation of natural perfumes, valued for its ability to produce pure, high-quality essential oils that capture the true essence of the original botanical material.

Title: Dry Down: 

The final stage of a perfume’s development on the skin, where the base or bottom notes become most prominent and enduring. This phase occurs after the initial top notes have evaporated and the heart notes have mellowed. In natural perfumery, dry down reveals the deep, rich scents derived from materials like resins, woods, and musks, which are known for their longevity and stability. These base notes provide the lasting impression of the fragrance, creating a signature scent that can linger for hours. The art of crafting a well-balanced dry down is crucial for natural perfumers, as it ensures the perfume evolves beautifully over time, maintaining its complexity and allure.

Title: Earthy Notes

Refers to perfume notes that evoke the rich, natural scent of soil, moss, and other elements of the earth. These notes are characterised by their deep, grounding, and sometimes musty aroma, reminiscent of the forest floor or freshly turned soil. Common ingredients that contribute to earthy notes in natural perfumery include patchouli, vetyver, oakmoss, and mushroom (cepes). They add depth and complexity to a fragrance, often serving as base notes that provide a solid foundation and enhance the longevity of the perfume. Earth Notes are particularly valued in natural perfumery for their ability to connect the wearer to nature and evoke a sense of grounding and stability.

Title: Eau de Cologne

Also known simply as Cologne, it refers to a type of fragrance composition characterised by its fresh, citrusy, and light scent profile. Eau de Cologne typically contains a high proportion of citrus oils such as bergamot, lemon, and orange, giving it a vibrant and refreshing aroma. The composition generally consists of approximately 3-5% perfume concentration diluted in a mixture of alcohol and distilled water. Originally developed in Cologne, Germany in the 18th century by Italian perfumer Johann Maria Farina, Eau de Cologne is known for its invigorating and revitalising qualities, making it a popular choice for daytime use and warmer climates. It is valued for its crispness and ability to provide a clean, brisk fragrance experience.

Title: Eau de Parfum

Eau de Parfum (EdP) is a category of fragrance known for its higher concentration of perfume oils compared to other types. Typically containing between 8-15% perfume composition blended with alcohol, Eau de Parfum strikes a balance between potency and elegance. In some formulations, a small amount of distilled water or floral hydrosol (less than 5%) may be added to enhance the fragrance profile without diluting the intensity of the scent. This concentration level gives Eau de Parfum a longer-lasting and more pronounced fragrance presence on the skin compared to lighter formulations like Eau de Toilette or Eau de Cologne. Eau de Parfum is favored for its depth and sophistication, making it suitable for both daytime and evening wear, offering a richer olfactory experience that evolves over time.