Natural Perfume Academy Main Glossary

According to Steffen Arctander in Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural origin: " Part of the "romance" or "thrill" in perfumery work lies in the fact that, not only are all the materials different in odor but hardly ever will two perfumers give identical descriptions of the same material or the same perfume"

relating to the sense of smell

Commiphora erythraea
Also known as: Sweet Myrrh

Description:
Opoponax is an aromatic gum resin derived from the Commiphora erythraea tree, native to parts of East Africa and the Middle East. Deeply resinous, rich, and sweet, it exudes a warm, animalic, and slightly smoky scent profile. The resin is reddish-brown and sticky, with strong fixative properties, making it a staple in oriental, balsamic, and mossy-woody perfume accords.

Forms of Use in Natural Perfumery:

• Opoponax Resinoid:
  Extracted via solvent methods; used as a fixative to deepen and anchor blends.
  Aroma: Intense, balsamic, animalic, sweet-resinous.

• Opoponax Essential Oil:
  Steam-distilled; a more accessible form for perfumers without the equipment to prepare resinoid.
  Note: Quality can vary; ensure the oil is truly from Commiphora erythraea and not substituted or diluted.

Note Family: Balsamic, Resinous, Woody, Oriental
Texture: Thick, syrupy, sticky, dense
Emotion: Mystical, grounding, sensual, introspective
Analogy: Ancient temple incense, warm animal skin, sunbaked forest floor

Blends Well With:

• Citrus: Bergamot, Sweet Orange, Lemon

• Floral: Rose, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang

• Spices: Cinnamon, Clove, Cardamom

• Woods: Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Patchouli

• Resins: Frankincense, Myrrh, Benzoin

• Herbal: Lavender, Sage, Thyme

These combinations yield deep, sensual fragrances with a warm, smoky, and meditative core.

Extraction Method:

• Solvent extraction (resinoid)

• Steam distillation (essential oil)

Unique Characteristics:

• Often confused with Myrrh, but opoponax is sweeter, smokier, and more animalic, whereas myrrh leans fresher and sharper

• Used sparingly due to its potent, dominating character

• Revered in both perfumery and ritual incense traditions

system of storing bottles of perfume making materials typified by stepped shelving

typified by amber notes and spice

Iris florentina, Iris pallida, Iris germanica

Common Names: Orris Root, Orris Butter, Beurre d’Iris, Orris Absolute

Description:
Orris is derived from the aged rhizomes (rootstock) of the iris plant—primarily Iris pallida and Iris florentina. The roots are aged for a minimum of three years to develop their fragrance, which is then extracted through several methods to yield various perfumery materials. Rich in α-irones, the aromatic compounds responsible for its violet-like, powdery aroma, orris is one of the most prized and expensive materials in natural perfumery.

Types of Orris Extracts

• Orris Butter (Beurre d’Iris):
  Obtained by steam distillation of aged roots. Despite the term "butter," it is not a true concrete, but a semi-solid, creamy mass.
  Aroma: Warm, sweet, powdery, violet-like; long-lasting and elegant.
  Regions: France, Italy, Morocco

• Orris Absolute:
  Extracted via solvent washing of orris butter, followed by careful vacuum distillation.
  Appearance: Pale yellow liquid.
  Aroma: Delicate, floral, faintly woody; used sparingly due to rarity and cost.

• Orris Resinoid ("Resin"):
  Produced by solvent extraction (e.g., with ethanol) from aged root.
  Texture: Honey-like, viscous.
  Note: Often more affordable than butter or absolute. Technically a concrete but called a "resin" due to its texture.

• Orris Powder:
  Ground aged root used in cosmetics, herbal sachets, and potpourri.
  Functions as a fixative and mild fragrance.

Descriptive Language Categories

Note Family: Floral, Powdery, Woody, Balsamic

Texture: Silky, creamy, buttery, powder-dry

Emotion: Elegant, nostalgic, calming, luxurious

Analogy: A velvet glove, vintage lipstick case, sunlit dressing table

Uses in Perfumery:

• Highly valued as a fixative and heart-to-base note component

• Imparts depth, elegance, and longevity to floral compositions

• Often used in violet, chypre, and aldehydic blends

Extraction Methods:

• Steam Distillation (for butter)

• Solvent Extraction (for resinoid and absolute)

Unique Characteristics:

• Requires 3+ years of aging to develop fragrance

• One of the most costly and labor-intensive natural materials

• Often substituted with synthetic irones due to cost

Tags: orris, iris, beurre d’iris, alpha-irones, iris pallida, violet note, powdery floral