Natural Perfume Academy Main Glossary

Title: Saffron

Botanical Name

The botanical name of the plant used to produce saffron absolute is Crocus sativus.

Description

Saffron is the most expensive spice in the world, known for its dark red gold color. It is obtained from the flowers of the Crocus sativus. While the flowers themselves are light purple, the thread-like stamens within are deep red, and these stamens constitute the saffron. Harvested in the autumn, the process of separating the stamens from the flowers is extremely laborious, requiring 70,000 pounds of flowers to yield just one pound of saffron. The odor of saffron is reminiscent of sea air, making it a unique and luxurious component in natural perfumery.

Uses

• Perfumery: Saffron absolute is highly valued in natural perfumery for its unique and luxurious scent, adding a rich, exotic note to fragrances.
• Aromatherapy: Saffron absolute is used in aromatherapy for its potential therapeutic benefits due to its concentrated nature.
• Cosmetics: It is incorporated into skincare and haircare products for its aromatic properties and potential benefits to the skin.

Additionally, saffron is used to flavor and add a yellow color to rice and as a natural dye for fabrics.

Goes Well With

Saffron absolute blends well with a variety of essential oils and other natural extracts. Some popular combinations include:

• Sandalwood
• Vanilla
• Rose oils

The Extraction Process

1. Harvesting: The plant material is harvested at peak fragrance times in the autumn.
2. Solvent Extraction: The saffron stamens are processed to create a concrete using solvents.
3. Alcohol Extraction: The concrete is then treated with alcohol to separate the absolute.
4. Purification: The absolute is purified and filtered to remove any impurities.

Why Choose Absolutes?

Absolutes are chosen for their unmatched aromatic complexity and strength, making them invaluable in creating luxurious and enduring perfumes.

Conclusion

Saffron absolute is an essential component in the world of natural perfumery, offering an intense and multifaceted scent that enhances any fragrance blend. Its versatility and potency make it a favorite among perfumers and aromatherapists alike. In natural antiquarian botanical perfumery, saffron is especially prized for its unique and rich aroma, adding an exotic touch to various fragrance compositions.

raw materials (essential oils, resins, absolutes, concretes, etc.) which dissolve in a diluent (alcohol, solvent, oil, water, etc.)

fluid materials used to dissolve and extract volatile elements of botanicals (water, alcohol, hexane, oil, etc.)

Notes which are typically hot in character, such as clove, pepper and cinnamon.

Styrax benzoin, Styrax tonkinensis, Styrax paralleloneurum

Common Names: Benzoin, Gum Benjamin, Styrax Resin

Description:
Benzoin is a balsamic resin obtained by tapping the bark of trees in the Styrax genus, primarily S. benzoin (Sumatra) and S. tonkinensis (Siam). The raw resin exudes from the tree and hardens into reddish-brown tears, which are collected and used for both perfumery and medicinal purposes.

Aroma Profile:
Warm, sweet, vanillic, and ambery with hints of cinnamon, honey, and caramel. It possesses a comforting, round aroma and serves as a fixative in natural perfumery. The Siam variety is generally softer, sweeter, and creamier, while the Sumatra type is slightly smokier and more intense.

Uses in Perfumery:
Widely used as a fixative and base note, Benzoin is prized in oriental, amber, and gourmand compositions. It softens sharp edges, rounds out florals, and anchors fleeting top notes. In natural perfumery, it’s often tinctured or used in resinous bases and incense.

Regions:
Thailand, Laos, Vietnam (Siam benzoin); Indonesia (Sumatra benzoin)

Extraction Method:
The resin is harvested directly from tree bark incisions and may be tinctured in ethanol or solvent-extracted for perfumery.

Goes Well With:
Labdanum, vanilla, tonka bean, patchouli, sandalwood, rose, myrrh, opoponax

Unique Characteristics:
Its warmth and sweet depth make Benzoin a classic anchor in perfumery, especially beloved in sacred blends, incense, and emotional compositions. It is also used in natural skin care as a healing and preservative agent due to its antiseptic properties.

Descriptive Language Categories

Note Family: Balsamic, Sweet, Resinous, Amber

Texture: Syrupy, resinous, velvety

Emotion: Comforting, grounding, nostalgic, devotional

Analogy: Warm church pews in winter, spiced caramel, aged parchment with vanilla ink

Cautions:
Benzoin is a known allergenic and sensitiser for some individuals. Use in moderation in topical applications.

characterized by taste utilizing essences such as vanilla, honey and warm balsamic notes