Natural Perfume Academy Main Glossary

whole botanical materials immersed in a hot medium, diluent or carrier; botanical material in warmed oil is considered an infusion

raw materials (essential oils, resins, absolutes, concretes, etc.) which do not dissolve in a diluent (alcohol, solvent, oil, water, etc.)

There exists some 200 species of jasmine.

Jasmine oil cannot be extracted by steam distillation. The main modern comercial method of extracting Jasmine oil is via solvent extraction.

Jasmine concrete is produced by solvent extraction of the fresh flowers.

Concrete of Jasmine sambac is a deep orange translucent mass of a jam like consistency. The sambac smells heady and intoxicating. Deep exotic floral with indolic, animalic undertones.

Concrete of grandiflorum is dark orange mass of jam like consistency. Grandiflorum is heady, intoxicating and fruity an exotic floral with peachy fruity notes.

Jasmine absolute is extracted from the concrete using alcohol.

Jasmine wax is a by product of this process.

Jasmine flowers of all varieties can be tinctured for use in perfumery.

Dried jasmine flowers usually don't have much of a smell and are mainly used in tea.

The Kadamba or Anthocephalus Cadamba tree is native to Northern India. An essential oil and a hexane extraction is produced from the flowers but the yeild is very small. The perfume from the flowers is intoxicating at night. 

According to Steffen Arctander "This is one of the rare perfume materials which deserves a permanent and prominent place on the perfumer's shelf." 

He describes it as "woody floral and sweet odor with a short lived top note. The dry out is delightfully sweet floral, reminiscence of champaca and neroli. The tenacity of this fragrance is almost incredible." 

Ref: Steffen Arctander; Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin

Lavender

Lavandula angustifolia, Lavandula hybrida, Lavandula luisieri, etc.
Also known as: True Lavender, English Lavender, Lavandin, Spanish Lavender

Description:
Lavender is a cornerstone of both natural perfumery and aromatherapy. With its complex aromatic profile ranging from herbaceous and floral to woody, sweet, and balsamic, it offers versatility across perfumery styles. Multiple species and extraction methods result in very different scent profiles.

Types of Lavender in Perfumery:

• Lavandula angustifolia (Bulgarian, French, Kashmir):

  • Essential oil is floral-herbaceous, soft, sometimes sweet or green, depending on terroir.

  • French lavender: cool, clean, herbal dry-down

  • Indian Kashmir: clean with sweet undertone

• Lavandula luisieri (Spanish Lavender Seville):

  • Typically extracted as an absolute, with woody-spicy notes and a complex, slightly fermented floral character.

• Lavandula hybrida (Lavandin Abrialis):

  • Considered lower-grade in perfumery due to its medicinal, camphoraceous scent, more aligned with functional aromatics (e.g., eucalyptus, tea tree, camphor).

Lavender Absolute:

According to Arctander:

"Lavender absolute... of very rich, sweet-herbaceous, somewhat floral odor; in dilution it bears a close resemblance to the odor of the flowering lavender shrubs. Its woody-herby undertone and coumarin-like sweetness duplicate the odor of the botanical material far better than the essential oil."

The absolute is sweeter but less floral than the essential oil and blends well with it to recreate the authentic scent of blooming lavender.

Perfumery Notes:

• Note Family: Floral-Herbaceous

• Note Type: Heart to Top Note

• Texture: Silky, balsamic, powdery, sometimes crisp

• Emotion: Comforting, clean, nostalgic, grounding

Blends Well With:

As noted by Arctander, lavender blends beautifully with:

• Citrus: Bergamot, lemon, orange

• Herbal: Rosemary, clary sage, pine

• Resins: Labdanum (excellent fixative in lavender accords)

• Others: Clove oils (e.g., for “Rondeletia” style perfumes), oakmoss, patchouli, liatris, and fluve

🧬 Extraction Types:

• Essential Oil: Distilled from the flowering tops (true lavender, French, Bulgarian)

• Absolute: Solvent-extracted, more complete in capturing the woody-sweet herbaceous profile of the plant

• CO2 Extraction (rare): Offers a truer-to-plant profile with some earthy, round notes

Regions:

• France, Bulgaria, India (Kashmir), Spain, Australia

Unique Characteristics:
Lavender is one of the rare aromatic plants whose absolute and essential oil differ notably—each offering distinct strengths. It’s also notable for straddling both floral and herbaceous scent families, making it a bridge note in many natural compositions.

Citrus limonum
Also known as: True Lemon, Citronnier, Limone

Description:
Cold-pressed from the fresh peel of Citrus limonum, lemon essential oil is one of the most recognisable and widely used citrus oils in both natural perfumery and aromatherapy. It has a bright, sharp, sparkling aroma with sweet, tart, and slightly green undertones. Its fresh and volatile nature makes it a top note that adds liveliness and radiance to any fragrance composition.

Note Family: Citrus
Texture: Zesty, effervescent, light, volatile
Emotion: Uplifting, clarifying, joyful, clean
Analogy: Freshly peeled lemon, sunlit garden, clean linen, lemon zest on fingertips

Blends Well With:

Other Citrus: Orange, Bergamot, Lime, Grapefruit

Herbal: Rosemary, Basil, Thyme, Lemongrass

Floral: Lavender, Neroli, Rose

Woods & Resins: Frankincense, Myrrh, Cedarwood

Spices: Ginger, Black Pepper, Coriander

Lemon lifts a blend with its crisp brightness, often used in colognes, herbal compositions, and detox-style aromatherapy accords.

Extraction Method:

Cold pressing of fresh lemon peel

Regions:

Commonly produced in Italy, Spain, California, and Argentina

Safety Note:
Cold-pressed lemon oil contains furanocoumarins and is phototoxic. Care should be taken with topical applications in sun-exposed areas. A distilled lemon oil is available as a safer alternative for leave-on products.

Unique Characteristics:

Highly volatile: offers strong top-note presence but fades quickly

Often used in natural cleaning products, eaux de cologne, and bright, youthful perfumes

Known to oxidise quickly—store in a cool, dark place with minimal air exposure

Citrus aurantifolia

Also known as: Mexican Lime, Key Lime Cold-pressed lime oil is extracted from the peel of the Citrus aurantifolia fruit, resulting in a bright, zesty, and effervescent aroma. It’s intensely fresh, green, and citrusy, with a sharp top note that lifts and energizes perfume compositions. This oil is notably phototoxic when cold-pressed, so must be used with caution in topical applications.Note Family: Citrus
Texture: Sharp, juicy, tart, volatile
Emotion: Invigorating, cheerful, refreshing
Analogy: Crushed lime peel, summer cocktails, tropical sunlight

Description:

Blends Well With:

Other Citrus: Bergamot, Lemon, Orange, Grapefruit

Herbal: Basil, Coriander, Lemongrass

Floral: Neroli, Ylang-Ylang, Lavender

Woody: Cedarwood, Sandalwood

Spices: Ginger, Cardamom

Cold-pressed lime enhances bright top notes, bringing a crisp and sparkling dimension to compositions.

Extraction Method:

Cold pressing of fresh lime peel (zest)

Regions:

Primarily grown and processed in Mexico, India, and the West Indies

Safety Note:
Due to its high furanocoumarin content, cold-pressed lime oil is phototoxic. Avoid skin exposure to sunlight after topical use unless using a furanocoumarin-free (FCF) version or distilled lime oil.

Unique Characteristics:

Cold-pressed lime oil is more intense and green than distilled lime oil

Prized for use in eau de cologne, summer accords, and natural cleaning blends

Offers a short but vibrant burst in perfumery due to its volatility