Natural Perfume Academy Main Glossary

Styrax benzoin, Styrax tonkinensis, Styrax paralleloneurum

Common Names: Benzoin, Gum Benjamin, Styrax Resin

Description:
Benzoin is a balsamic resin obtained by tapping the bark of trees in the Styrax genus, primarily S. benzoin (Sumatra) and S. tonkinensis (Siam). The raw resin exudes from the tree and hardens into reddish-brown tears, which are collected and used for both perfumery and medicinal purposes.

Aroma Profile:
Warm, sweet, vanillic, and ambery with hints of cinnamon, honey, and caramel. It possesses a comforting, round aroma and serves as a fixative in natural perfumery. The Siam variety is generally softer, sweeter, and creamier, while the Sumatra type is slightly smokier and more intense.

Uses in Perfumery:
Widely used as a fixative and base note, Benzoin is prized in oriental, amber, and gourmand compositions. It softens sharp edges, rounds out florals, and anchors fleeting top notes. In natural perfumery, it’s often tinctured or used in resinous bases and incense.

Regions:
Thailand, Laos, Vietnam (Siam benzoin); Indonesia (Sumatra benzoin)

Extraction Method:
The resin is harvested directly from tree bark incisions and may be tinctured in ethanol or solvent-extracted for perfumery.

Goes Well With:
Labdanum, vanilla, tonka bean, patchouli, sandalwood, rose, myrrh, opoponax

Unique Characteristics:
Its warmth and sweet depth make Benzoin a classic anchor in perfumery, especially beloved in sacred blends, incense, and emotional compositions. It is also used in natural skin care as a healing and preservative agent due to its antiseptic properties.

Descriptive Language Categories

Note Family: Balsamic, Sweet, Resinous, Amber

Texture: Syrupy, resinous, velvety

Emotion: Comforting, grounding, nostalgic, devotional

Analogy: Warm church pews in winter, spiced caramel, aged parchment with vanilla ink

Cautions:
Benzoin is a known allergenic and sensitiser for some individuals. Use in moderation in topical applications.

characterized by taste utilizing essences such as vanilla, honey and warm balsamic notes

Tagetes patula, Tagetes minuta, Tagetes erecta

Description:
Tagetes oil is steam distilled from the flowering tops of several species in the Tagetes genus, most notably T. minuta (Southern Cone Marigold), T. patula (French Marigold), and T. erecta (African or Aztec Marigold). Native to Central and South America and widely cultivated in Africa and India, Tagetes plants are known for their vibrant yellow-orange flowers and their strong, herbaceous aroma.

Aroma Profile:
Powerfully green, sharp, and herbaceous, with fruity-apricot-like top notes and a pungent undertone reminiscent of bitter herbs and tarragon. Some species exhibit a camphoraceous or slightly rubbery nuance. The drydown may reveal a balsamic, hay-like character.

Uses in Perfumery:
Primarily used in chypre, herbal, fougère, and rustic floral accords for its assertive top note. In small amounts, Tagetes can impart a fresh, wild character and is occasionally used to round off green or citrus notes. It also finds limited use in flavouring (notably in tobacco) and traditional healing practices.

Regions:
India, South Africa, Argentina, Kenya

Extraction Method:
Steam distillation of flowering tops

Goes Well With:
Citrus oils (especially orange, lemon), galbanum, lavender, clary sage, artemisia, and vetiver

Unique Characteristics:
Highly diffusive and tenacious, Tagetes oil is used with caution due to its phototoxic properties (especially T. minuta) and allergenic potential. Its unusual profile requires a delicate hand in formulation.

Descriptive Language Categories

Note Family: Green, Herbal, Fruity, Balsamic

Texture: Sharp, juicy-green, sticky-herbaceous

Emotion: Wild, alerting, rustic, nostalgic

Analogy: Overgrown herb garden in late summer, wildflowers crushed underfoot, bitter fruit peel in sunlight

Cautions:
Phototoxic and potentially sensitizing. Avoid in leave-on products or use below IFRA-specified thresholds.

Tea absolutes Camellia sinensis , thea chinensis , thea sinensis 

strength of a scent or note characterized by the length of time it lasts on the skin

A tincture is an alcoholic extract of natural raw materials. Common tinctures include: Tincture of vanilla, Tincture of Ambrette seed, Tincture of Orris, Tincture of benzoin, and Tincture of Labdanum. 

Treemosses usnea / pseudoevernia furfuracea See Oakmoss

Title: Tuberose

Tuberose (Polianthes tuberosa) is a highly fragrant perennial plant native to Mexico, and it has been cherished for centuries for its captivating, creamy white blooms that emit an intense, rich floral aroma. In the realm of natural perfumery, tuberose is considered one of the most luxurious and sensual floral notes, often used in high-end and artisanal fragrances.

Characteristics and Extraction

The scent of tuberose is complex and multi-faceted, featuring notes of creaminess, sweetness, and an almost narcotic intensity that is both heady and seductive. This makes it a powerful addition to perfumes, where it often serves as the heart or middle note, providing depth and opulence to a fragrance composition.

Tuberose is typically extracted in two primary forms used in natural perfumery:

1. Tuberose Absolute: This is obtained through solvent extraction, resulting in a thick, deep-colored liquid that retains the full spectrum of the flower's aroma. Tuberose absolute is highly concentrated and potent, often used in minute quantities due to its strength.

2. Tuberose Concrete: This solid, waxy substance is also produced via solvent extraction and then refined. Tuberose concrete is admired for its golden color and solid form, which can be further processed to produce the absolute.

Perfumery Uses

Tuberose is a versatile note in perfumery, complementing and enhancing a wide range of other fragrance components. It pairs beautifully with:

• Other White Florals: Such as jasmine, orange blossom, and gardenia, creating lush, romantic bouquets.

• Spicy Notes: Like clove and cinnamon, which can temper its sweetness and add warmth.

• Woody and Balsamic Bases: Such as sandalwood, amber, and vanilla, which provide a rich, enduring foundation for the tuberose's voluptuous aroma.

Example Uses in Fragrance Types:

• Oriental Perfumes: Tuberose adds a rich floral heart to oriental blends, complementing spices and resins.

• Floral Bouquets: As a dominant or co-dominant note, tuberose enhances the overall floral experience.

• Chypre and Green Scents: It adds an opulent floral dimension to the fresh, mossy, and woody components.

Additional Notes

• Historical Significance: Tuberose has been used in traditional garlands and ceremonial offerings, symbolizing both love and danger due to its intense fragrance.

• Modern Popularity: It remains a staple in luxury perfumery and niche fragrances, appreciated for its ability to evoke both vintage glamour and modern sophistication.

References

• "Perfumes: The A-Z Guide" by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez: This book offers insightful reviews of perfumes, including those featuring tuberose.

• "The Essence of Perfume" by Roja Dove: A comprehensive guide to the world of perfume, including the role of natural ingredients like tuberose.

• "Fragrant: The Secret Life of Scent" by Mandy Aftel: A deep dive into the history and use of natural ingredients in perfumery, including tuberose.

Tuberose remains a beloved and pivotal element in natural perfumery, admired for its ability to convey an air of luxury and mystique. Its unique aroma continues to inspire perfumers and captivate fragrance enthusiasts around the world.

To make an ultrasonic extract the raw material which has been ground to a powder is suspended in a solvent. High frequency vibration is applied and in a short amount of time the extraction is complete. 

Lippia citriodora

(syn. Aloysia triphylla, Aloysia citriodora)

Description:
Verbena absolute is a fragrant extract derived from the lemon-scented leaves of Lippia citriodora, a shrub native to South America and now widely cultivated in Mediterranean climates. Unlike the more common essential oil, the absolute is obtained through solvent extraction and is deeper, more rounded, and longer-lasting in perfume compositions.

Aroma Profile:
Bright, citrusy, and green with sweet, herbal-floral nuances and a soft lemon balm-like undertone. The absolute has more body than the essential oil and adds a sparkling, uplifting freshness to compositions.

Uses in Perfumery:
Often used in cologne, floral bouquets, green accords, and herbal compositions, verbena absolute imparts radiance and a refreshing lift. It's also used to introduce natural lemony notes without the instability of citrus oils.

Regions:
South America (native), cultivated in France, Spain, North Africa

Extraction Method:
Solvent extraction from dried leaves

Goes Well With:
Lemongrass, rose, lavender, litsea cubeba, neroli, basil, petitgrain

Unique Characteristics:
Verbena absolute offers a more persistent and less volatile lemon scent than citrus oils. It is sometimes confused with lemon verbena essential oil, though the two differ significantly in tenacity and depth.

Descriptive Language Categories

Note Family: Citrus, Green, Herbal, Floral

Texture: Silky, light, bright, leafy

Emotion: Uplifting, cheerful, refreshing, clear-headed

Analogy: Morning lemon tea, sunlit garden herbs, lemon zest on a cool breeze

Cautions:
Verbena (especially the essential oil) may be sensitising. Always check concentration and batch-specific safety.