Natural Perfume Academy Main Glossary

Massoia bark cryptocaryo massoio – prohibited (should not be used in fragrance)

(same as heart note)notes which normally classify or identify the perfume family or theme of the composition; for instance, if your theme is a white floral, then you would blend some combination of jasmine, neroli, tuberose, gardenia tinctures and other ‘white’ flower oils as the main component of this note

typified by oak moss, tree mosses and forest floor essences

intense and intoxicating essences such as rose, jasmine, hyacinth and other rich florals

refers to the melody within the composition, the song of the perfume, the theme, or to a particular part of a perfume or aromatic used within the composition ('galbanum is a note in this perfume'), or it refers to how the composition is perceived, i.e. ‘floral notes’, ‘woody notes’, ‘green notes’

According to Steffen Arctander in Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural origin: " Part of the "romance" or "thrill" in perfumery work lies in the fact that, not only are all the materials different in odor but hardly ever will two perfumers give identical descriptions of the same material or the same perfume"

relating to the sense of smell

Commiphora erythraea
Also known as: Sweet Myrrh

Description:
Opoponax is an aromatic gum resin derived from the Commiphora erythraea tree, native to parts of East Africa and the Middle East. Deeply resinous, rich, and sweet, it exudes a warm, animalic, and slightly smoky scent profile. The resin is reddish-brown and sticky, with strong fixative properties, making it a staple in oriental, balsamic, and mossy-woody perfume accords.

Forms of Use in Natural Perfumery:

• Opoponax Resinoid:
  Extracted via solvent methods; used as a fixative to deepen and anchor blends.
  Aroma: Intense, balsamic, animalic, sweet-resinous.

• Opoponax Essential Oil:
  Steam-distilled; a more accessible form for perfumers without the equipment to prepare resinoid.
  Note: Quality can vary; ensure the oil is truly from Commiphora erythraea and not substituted or diluted.

Note Family: Balsamic, Resinous, Woody, Oriental
Texture: Thick, syrupy, sticky, dense
Emotion: Mystical, grounding, sensual, introspective
Analogy: Ancient temple incense, warm animal skin, sunbaked forest floor

Blends Well With:

• Citrus: Bergamot, Sweet Orange, Lemon

• Floral: Rose, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang

• Spices: Cinnamon, Clove, Cardamom

• Woods: Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Patchouli

• Resins: Frankincense, Myrrh, Benzoin

• Herbal: Lavender, Sage, Thyme

These combinations yield deep, sensual fragrances with a warm, smoky, and meditative core.

Extraction Method:

• Solvent extraction (resinoid)

• Steam distillation (essential oil)

Unique Characteristics:

• Often confused with Myrrh, but opoponax is sweeter, smokier, and more animalic, whereas myrrh leans fresher and sharper

• Used sparingly due to its potent, dominating character

• Revered in both perfumery and ritual incense traditions

system of storing bottles of perfume making materials typified by stepped shelving