Rose

rose

Rosa damascena, Rosa centifolia

Common Names: Bulgarian Rose, Rose de Mai, Damask Rose, Cabbage Rose


Description:
Rose oil is extracted from the fragrant petals of Rosa damascena (Bulgarian) and Rosa centifolia (Moroccan, “Rose de Mai”). These flowers have been celebrated for centuries in both perfumery and traditional medicine. The various extracts—Rose Otto, Rose Concrete, and Rose Absolute—differ in process, scent character, and usage.


Types of Rose Extracts

  • Rose Otto (Essential Oil):
    Steam-distilled from Rosa damascena. Pale yellow, sometimes solidifies when cold.
    Aroma: Rich, warm, floral-spicy with honeyed undertones. Fresh rose scent emerges more clearly when diluted. Most expensive of all rose extracts.

  • Rose Concrete:
    Solvent extraction from fresh petals (usually Rosa damascena or centifolia).
    Appearance: Thick, jam-like mass (orange to greenish-yellow).
    Aroma (damascena): Sweet, rich, warm-floral with honey-spice notes.
    Aroma (centifolia): Sweet, floral, rich, with woody-tea-like nuances.

  • Rose Absolute:
    Alcohol extracted from rose concrete.
    Aroma: Intense, true-to-flower, used widely in fine perfumery for its roundness and sensuality.


Rose Scent Classifications

(According to Shiseido’s classification of rose scent profiles):

  1. Damask Classic – Traditional rose, strong and sweet.

  2. Damask Modern – Sophisticated and passionate, with refined complexity.

  3. Tea – Elegant, refined, with hints of green violet; common in hybrid tea roses.

  4. Fruity – Echoes peach, apricot, and apple; bright and joyful.

  5. Blue – Rare type combining tea and Damask Modern nuances.

  6. Spicy – Clove-like warmth; a trait of many classic Damask types.


Descriptive Language Categories

Note Family: Floral, Powdery, Spicy, Green, Fruity

Texture: Velvety, honeyed, petal-soft, silky

Emotion: Romantic, sensual, nostalgic, comforting

Analogy: Velvet drapes in a sunlit room, dew-covered petals, a letter from a lover


Uses in Perfumery:
Rose oil and absolutes are used in floral, chypre, and oriental perfumes. Rose otto is prized for its tenacity and elegance; absolutes are used to round out floral bouquets or add sensuality to spicy or resinous blends.

Regions:
Bulgaria, Turkey, Morocco, France, India

Extraction Methods:

  • Rose Otto: Steam distillation

  • Concrete: Solvent extraction

  • Absolute: Alcohol extraction from concrete

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