NATURAL PERFUME ACADEMY GLOSSARY


The Natural Perfume Glossary compiled by Justine Crane & NPA




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Gardenia

There are many species of gardenia, but the most cultivated for its beauty and scent is Gardenia jasminoides called also Cape jasmine.

Its intoxicating scent is found as absolute, but you can make oil extraction yourself if you have a plant.

Its aroma is a kind of lemony jasmine and very strong . Half a dozen flowers are enough to modify completely the smell of one litre of vegetable oil or butter.

Entry link: Gardenia

Hay

an essence typified by a coumarin character; tonka, lavender absolute, liatris

Entry link: Hay

Saffron

SaffronSaffron is the most expensive spice in the world.

The absolute or tincture is used in natural perfumery. It is a dark red gold colour. Saffron is obtained from the flowers of the crocus sativa. The crocus sativa is light purple itself but the thread like stamens are deep red. It is these stamens that are the saffron. Saffron is harvested in the Autumn, then the labourious work of separating the stamens from the flowers begins. Imagine that it takes 70,000 pounds of flowers to yield just one pound of the spice. The odor of saffron is reminiscent of the sea air.

The spice is used to flavour and add a yellow colour to rice. It is also used as a a natural dye for fabrics.

Entry link: Saffron

Rosewood

Tree from the Hylea Brasiliensis, the Amazonian Jungle, from Lauraceae family, with the wood rich in linalol and smelling like rose. The species reaches 30m.

Used as fixative in many perfumes, it sweetens the aroma of flowers, enlightening the dullest of blends.

Used in Aromatherapy to stimulate the immune system.

The tree is threatened with extinction because of its scent and many uses ( furniture, floors, guitar making, etc), but there are some self sufficient plantations like in Ducke Conservation Park in a river island called Silves where they extract ECOCERT essential oil of rosewood, preciosa and other scented trees of the Amazon forests, and the women make handcrafted goods with them.

Entry link: Rosewood

Phytotherapy

"This term is a compound of two Greek words meaning "plant" and "healing" and is used to describe all forms of treatments using plants. In France this term is used to describe what we would call Medical Herbalism but aromatherapy is often included under the same heading"...Patricia Davis in "Aromatherapy, an A to Z".

It can be argued that perfumes created using vibrant, natural plant materials and extracts with no synthetic or chemical additives could also be regarded as a branch of Phytotherapy.

Entry link: Phytotherapy

Macerate

To steep or soak aromatic plant material in a liquid (usually water or a plain vegetable oil) to create a plant extract containing the water or oil soluble constituents. The macerate will usually differ chemically from an essential or expressed oil made from the same plant material due to this. It is possible to create a macerate from plants that do not usually yield an essential oils by distillation. Examples are Meadowsweet and Comfrey. Macerates are also known as Infused or herbal oils.
Entry link: Macerate

Lemon cold-pressed

citrus limonum 

Entry link: Lemon cold-pressed

Lime cold-pressed

citrus aurantifolia 

Entry link: Lime cold-pressed

Tagettes/Tagetes

tagetes patula, T. minuta, T. erecta 

Entry link: Tagettes/Tagetes

Calamus

Calamus acorus calamus

Entry link: Calamus


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