NATURAL PERFUME ACADEMY GLOSSARY
The Natural Perfume Glossary compiled by Justine Crane & NPA
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Calamus acorus calamus
Camphor-like essences such as eucalyptus and tea tree; medicinal note found in lavender and rosemary
oil used as a base or diluent in oil-based and solid perfume making; typically jojoba and fractionated coconut oils due to their longer shelf lives
Cassia cinnamomum cassia
Champaca or Champa Absolute
Champa absolute from the flowers of the Michelia Champaca is an exotic rich deep floral natural perfumery material. It reminds me of carnation and tuberose and has warm caramel, peppery vanilla orchid notes.
I have a Champaca C02 which has more of the spice caramel and less of the lily type floral scent. I would favor the absolute to the C02 extract.
The absolute and C02 are extracted from concrete which is obtained from the yellow magnolia-like flowers of a medium sized tree which grows in the Indonesia and India and also Madagascar off the South Coast of Africa.
Steffen Arctander (P.160 Perfume and Flaor Materials of Natural Origin) describes Champaca Absolute as "quite unique: delicately dry-floral, at the same time reminding one of the orange flowers, ylang ylang, carnation and the tearose."
The absolute blends very well with carnation and rose. In dilution it has a soft floral tea-like note, it is best fixed with bases that do not easily overwhelm the delicate floral notes, for instance: sandalwood, auracaria, benzoin, ambrette, and ambergris.
(see Accord) refers to a combination of three or more aromatics to create a single ‘essence’, or an accord
a dominating blend of bergamot and oak moss rounded off with rich woody essences like patchouli and ambriene
The notes obtained through the use of citrus; orange, lemon, lime, bergamot, grapefruit, yuzu, lemongrass
a scent which follows a perfumery template utilizing a higher percentage of floral notes to create an essence with timeless appeal