NATURAL PERFUME ACADEMY GLOSSARY


The Natural Perfume Glossary compiled by Justine Crane & NPA




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Adulteration

The intention of acquiring [a sale] through the devaluation of the oil in relation to the labeling of it's container. (Stephen Arctander)
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Alcohol

perfume medium, diluent, solvent or carrier for a perfume composition; in natural perfumery, 190 proof organic grape or grain alcohol is preferred

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Animalic

usually refers to fecal, leathery and fur-like scents, such as hyraceum (hyrax/Africa Stone), ambergris, costus, nargarmotha, patchouli and civet; can have some connection to indolic botanical materials such as jasmine

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Aromatic

strongly scented materials; specifically refers to rich, balsamic essences, but can be used to refer to nearly any deliciously scented botanical material

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Balsam

A Balsam is a natural raw material exuded from a tree or plant; the balsam may be either a physiological or a pathological product of the plant. (Stefan Arctander)
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Balsamic

refers to sweet, warm, woody, rich notes such as tolu balsam and benzoin

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Base Notes

notes within a perfume composition which are more tenacious and long-lasting; the last notes detected in the dry down of a perfume composition

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Bee goo

It is the term used to designate the rests of bad wax, cells, polen, propolis, pieces of bees that remain from taking the wax of a bee hive, macerated in alcohol. Macerations from 8 months old on are considered to be good fixative.
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Body

a well-rounded composition

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Boronia

BoroniaBoronia grows or originates almost exclusively from Australia.

The most fragrant boronia is the Boronia megastigma. It is often used in flower arrangements because of it's very intense perfume. There are around 95 species of boronia. The leaves of the boronia megastigma are also fragrant. The flowers are brown and cup shaped with yellow insides.

For perfumery the flowers are collected and then extracted using solvents to produce a concrete. The concrete is further extracted with alcohol to produce boronia absolute. The absolute is semi-liquid and normally dark green and has a fruity tea like odor. In natural perfumery boronia is used with mimosa, violet and honeysuckle base formulations.

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