NATURAL PERFUME ACADEMY GLOSSARY


The Natural Perfume Glossary compiled by Justine Crane & NPA




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Tuberose

TuberoseTuberose absolute from the flowers of the Polyanthes Tuberosa is one of the most expensive perfumery materials known. Until recently tuberose absolute was extracted via the enfleurage method, but now with labor costs increasing this method is no longer viable economically speaking. The flowers excude a very strong heady scent which continues to release perfume for a long time after the blossom has been plucked from the stem. It takes 3,600 kilos of flowers to produce 1 single kilo of the absolute, so there is hardly any wonder it is so expensive. Arctander on P. 631 of his book Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin, describes the scent of tuberose from concrete as a "heavy floral, almost nauseatingly sweet, heavy and somewhat spicy odor".

(Authors note) When I smell tuberose I get a distinctly tuberous smell, reminds me of raw potatoes, it is only after this subsides that I get the floral heavy sweet scent which Arctander describes.

Entry link: Tuberose

Sillage

A term often used in perfumery to describe the trail of scent you leave behind you.
The term is derived from the French language, and is defined as: wake, slipstream, or trail.
Entry link: Sillage

Soluable

raw materials (essential oils, resins, absolutes, concretes, etc.) which dissolve in a diluent (alcohol, solvent, oil, water, etc.)

Entry link: Soluable

Sweet

characterized by taste utilizing essences such as vanilla, honey and warm balsamic notes

Entry link: Sweet

Raw Material

botanical or animal based material used in perfumery; essential oils, absolutes, tinctures, infusions, concretes, pomades, CO2 extractions, etc. are all examples of a raw material

Entry link: Raw Material

Resinoids

(see Balsam and Gums)sweet, warm, woody, resinous materials; exudates of trees.

Entry link: Resinoids

Rose

roseRose oils are extracted from the Rosa Damascena (Bulgarian) and Rosa Centifolia (Moroccan) also known as 'rose de mai'.

Rose otto is the essential oil steam distilled from fresh roses.

Rose concrete a solvent extraction of fresh roses.

Rose absolute is extracted from the rose concrete using alcohol.

Rose otto is distilled from the Bulgarian rose or rosa damscena. The otto is an almost clear pale yellow liquid. When it is very cold it solidifies but it is easily warmed to liquid again. Rose otto smells rich, floral, warm and spicy with honey undertones. The smell of fresh roses becomes more apparent at when the otto is diluted. Rose otto is the most expensive extract of roses.

Rose concrete from Rosa Damscena is a deep orange colored mass of a jam-like consistency, can be greenish yellow. The smell is sweet rich floral very like fresh roses with warm honey spicy undertones.

Rose Concrete from Rosa Centifolia a deep orange colored mass of a jam-like consistency, can be greenish yellow. The smell is sweet floral, rich woody tea like.

According to Shiseido there are 6 scent classification of a rose scent:

  • Damask Classic
    The typical scent of the rose, comprised of strong and sweet Rosa centifolia that becomes an essence base, and the exuberant scent of Rosa gallica.
  • Damask Modern
    Basically the same as Damask Classic, but since its composition is different, it gives off a more passionate, sophisticated scent.
  • Scent of Tea
    The scent of hybrid tea roses that opened the door to modern roses. Its scent is refined and graceful with the base note of green violet. Many modern roses have this type of scent.
  • Fruity Scent
    Has the characteristics of both Damask Classic and the Tea Rose, and gives off the aroma of peach, apricot and apple.
  • Blue Scent
    Roses of a unique blue scent have the characteristics of both Damask Modern and Tea.
  • Spicy Scent
    The strong scent of cloves are contained in the scent of Damask Classic.
Entry link: Rose

Palette

collection of raw materials used by the perfumer to create perfume

Entry link: Palette

Parfum/Perfume

(see Extrait) highest concentration of scent to diluent in perfume making; 15 to 30% composition blend to alcohol or diluent

Entry link: Parfum/Perfume

Persistence

This term is used to describe the longevity or staying-power of a particular perfume on the skin.
For example: "this scent has remarkable persistence".
Entry link: Persistence


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