Natural Perfume Academy Main Glossary

a note obtained through the blending of sweet, woody notes with fruity, green or citrus notes; typified by the use of vanilla, patchouli, benzoin, labdanum, cananga/ylang-ylang, rose, sandalwood and/or bergamot

botanical or animal based material used in perfumery; essential oils, absolutes, tinctures, infusions, concretes, pomades, CO2 extractions, etc. are all examples of a raw material

(see Balsam and Gums)sweet, warm, woody, resinous materials; exudates of trees.

Rosa damascena, Rosa centifolia

Common Names: Bulgarian Rose, Rose de Mai, Damask Rose, Cabbage Rose

Description:
Rose oil is extracted from the fragrant petals of Rosa damascena (Bulgarian) and Rosa centifolia (Moroccan, “Rose de Mai”). These flowers have been celebrated for centuries in both perfumery and traditional medicine. The various extracts—Rose Otto, Rose Concrete, and Rose Absolute—differ in process, scent character, and usage.

Types of Rose Extracts

• Rose Otto (Essential Oil):
  Steam-distilled from Rosa damascena. Pale yellow, sometimes solidifies when cold.
  Aroma: Rich, warm, floral-spicy with honeyed undertones. Fresh rose scent emerges more clearly when diluted. Most expensive of all rose extracts.

• Rose Concrete:
  Solvent extraction from fresh petals (usually Rosa damascena or centifolia).
  Appearance: Thick, jam-like mass (orange to greenish-yellow).
  Aroma (damascena): Sweet, rich, warm-floral with honey-spice notes.
  Aroma (centifolia): Sweet, floral, rich, with woody-tea-like nuances.

• Rose Absolute:
  Alcohol extracted from rose concrete.
  Aroma: Intense, true-to-flower, used widely in fine perfumery for its roundness and sensuality.

Rose Scent Classifications

(According to Shiseido’s classification of rose scent profiles):

1. Damask Classic – Traditional rose, strong and sweet.

2. Damask Modern – Sophisticated and passionate, with refined complexity.

3. Tea – Elegant, refined, with hints of green violet; common in hybrid tea roses.

4. Fruity – Echoes peach, apricot, and apple; bright and joyful.

5. Blue – Rare type combining tea and Damask Modern nuances.

6. Spicy – Clove-like warmth; a trait of many classic Damask types.

Descriptive Language Categories

Note Family: Floral, Powdery, Spicy, Green, Fruity

Texture: Velvety, honeyed, petal-soft, silky

Emotion: Romantic, sensual, nostalgic, comforting

Analogy: Velvet drapes in a sunlit room, dew-covered petals, a letter from a lover

Uses in Perfumery:
Rose oil and absolutes are used in floral, chypre, and oriental perfumes. Rose otto is prized for its tenacity and elegance; absolutes are used to round out floral bouquets or add sensuality to spicy or resinous blends.

Regions:
Bulgaria, Turkey, Morocco, France, India

Extraction Methods:

• Rose Otto: Steam distillation

• Concrete: Solvent extraction

• Absolute: Alcohol extraction from concrete

Aniba rosaeodora
Family: Lauraceae

Common Names: Brazilian Rosewood, Bois de Rose, Pau-Rosa

Description:
Rosewood essential oil is steam-distilled from the heartwood of Aniba rosaeodora, a majestic Amazonian tree reaching up to 30 meters in height. Belonging to the Lauraceae family, its wood is exceptionally rich in linalool, giving it a sweet, floral, slightly woody aroma reminiscent of rose — hence the name.

Aroma Profile:
Delicate yet radiant, rosewood oil has a light, rosy, floral scent with woody and citrus-laced undertones. It is uplifting, elegant, and gently persistent, often used to brighten and soften floral accords or add sparkle to citrus and woody compositions.

Uses in Perfumery:
Rosewood is used primarily as a fixative and modifier, especially in floral blends. It brings light, smoothness, and harmony to harsh notes. A classic component in high-end perfumes, it sweetens, lifts, and illuminates otherwise dull or heavy blends.

Regions:
Primarily Brazil, especially in the Amazon Basin. Sustainable cultivation efforts exist in regions like Silves and the Ducke Conservation Park, where certified ECOCERT oils are produced alongside conservation initiatives.

Extraction Method:
Steam distillation from the chipped heartwood

Goes Well With:
Rose, orange blossom, neroli, cedarwood, sandalwood, geranium, patchouli

Unique Characteristics:
Its high linalool content (up to 90%) makes it not only valuable in perfumery but also in aromatherapy, where it's used to support immune health, reduce fatigue, and gently uplift the mood. Its status as an endangered species has led to increased interest in sustainable plantations and bio-cultivation.

Descriptive Language Categories

Note Family: Floral, Woody, Fresh, Citrus-Floral

Texture: Silky, radiant, sheer

Emotion: Uplifting, serene, clarifying, balancing

Analogy: Sunlight through rose petals, a polished cedar writing desk, fresh linen in a blooming garden

Conservation Status:
Rosewood is endangered due to overharvesting for its fragrant wood, valued in luxury furniture, flooring, and musical instruments. Ethical perfumery sources only from sustainable, certified plantations.

Title: Saffron

Botanical Name

The botanical name of the plant used to produce saffron absolute is Crocus sativus.

Description

Saffron is the most expensive spice in the world, known for its dark red gold color. It is obtained from the flowers of the Crocus sativus. While the flowers themselves are light purple, the thread-like stamens within are deep red, and these stamens constitute the saffron. Harvested in the autumn, the process of separating the stamens from the flowers is extremely laborious, requiring 70,000 pounds of flowers to yield just one pound of saffron. The odor of saffron is reminiscent of sea air, making it a unique and luxurious component in natural perfumery.

Uses

• Perfumery: Saffron absolute is highly valued in natural perfumery for its unique and luxurious scent, adding a rich, exotic note to fragrances.
• Aromatherapy: Saffron absolute is used in aromatherapy for its potential therapeutic benefits due to its concentrated nature.
• Cosmetics: It is incorporated into skincare and haircare products for its aromatic properties and potential benefits to the skin.

Additionally, saffron is used to flavor and add a yellow color to rice and as a natural dye for fabrics.

Goes Well With

Saffron absolute blends well with a variety of essential oils and other natural extracts. Some popular combinations include:

• Sandalwood
• Vanilla
• Rose oils

The Extraction Process

1. Harvesting: The plant material is harvested at peak fragrance times in the autumn.
2. Solvent Extraction: The saffron stamens are processed to create a concrete using solvents.
3. Alcohol Extraction: The concrete is then treated with alcohol to separate the absolute.
4. Purification: The absolute is purified and filtered to remove any impurities.

Why Choose Absolutes?

Absolutes are chosen for their unmatched aromatic complexity and strength, making them invaluable in creating luxurious and enduring perfumes.

Conclusion

Saffron absolute is an essential component in the world of natural perfumery, offering an intense and multifaceted scent that enhances any fragrance blend. Its versatility and potency make it a favorite among perfumers and aromatherapists alike. In natural antiquarian botanical perfumery, saffron is especially prized for its unique and rich aroma, adding an exotic touch to various fragrance compositions.

raw materials (essential oils, resins, absolutes, concretes, etc.) which dissolve in a diluent (alcohol, solvent, oil, water, etc.)

fluid materials used to dissolve and extract volatile elements of botanicals (water, alcohol, hexane, oil, etc.)

Notes which are typically hot in character, such as clove, pepper and cinnamon.