Chrysopogon zizanioides (formerly Vetiveria zizanoides)

Description:
Vetiver oil is steam-distilled from the fibrous rootlets of a tall perennial grass native to India, but now cultivated in tropical regions including Haiti, Réunion, Java, and the Caribbean. Prized since antiquity for its grounding aroma and fixative qualities, vetiver offers a wide olfactory range depending on origin and aging. Freshly distilled vetiver may exhibit a cool, damp, earthy scent—sometimes likened to raw potato—whereas aged vetiver deepens into smoother, woody, smoky, and resinous nuances.

Uses in Perfumery:
Used as a base note and natural fixative, vetiver lends depth and longevity to a composition. It is essential in chypre, fougère, oriental, and woody accords. Its complexity also makes it suitable for soliflore interpretations and gender-neutral fragrances.

Regions:
India, Haiti, Indonesia (Java), Réunion, Caribbean

Extraction Method:
Steam distillation from washed, dried, and chopped rootlets

Goes Well With:
Sandalwood, patchouli, oakmoss, labdanum, bergamot, clary sage, rose, cedarwood

Unique Characteristics:
Vetiver’s aroma profile varies greatly by terroir and treatment. Haitian vetiver is smoother and more refined; Javanese vetiver is smokier and more tenacious. Often referred to as the “oil of tranquillity,” vetiver is grounding, stabilizing, and emotionally soothing.

Descriptive Language Categories

Note Family: Woody, Earthy, Smoky, Balsamic

Texture: Damp, rooty, resinous, velvety, mineral

Emotion: Grounding, contemplative, meditative, nostalgic

Analogy: Damp soil after rain, aged oakwood, forest floor, smoked roots

Arctander Tag (paraphrased):
"Heavy, woody-earthy oil of great tenacity, with a sweet, balsamic-ambergris-like undertone. One of the most important fixatives of perfumery."

Wintergreen (toxic)

Artemisia absinthium

(Sensitizer – use with caution in perfumery)  – see conflicting information at www.thegoodscentscompany.com regarding artemisia absinthium l. Cuba, Artemisia absinthium l. oil Italy, Artemisia absinthium l. oil Poland

Description:
Wormwood oil is steam-distilled from the aerial parts of Artemisia absinthium, a silvery-green herb native to Europe and parts of Asia. It is most famous as a key ingredient in absinthe and is known for its bitter, medicinal, and slightly camphoraceous scent. Its use in natural perfumery is limited due to potential sensitization and regulatory restrictions.

Uses:
Used sparingly in natural perfumery for its sharp green-herbal top notes that lend complexity to fougère, chypre, and herbal accords. Occasionally used in modern aromatic perfumes to introduce a bitter twist or medicinal note.

Goes Well With:
Lavender, rosemary, vetiver, clary sage, galbanum, and citrus oils (especially bergamot and lemon).

Regions:
Cuba, Italy, Poland

Extraction Method:
Steam distillation from the flowering tops and leaves

Unique Characteristics:
Contains thujone (a known neurotoxin in large quantities), which contributes to its bitter, almost metallic edge. Wormwood has a historical legacy in medicine and spirit-making and remains symbolically tied to mysticism and ritual.

Descriptive Language Categories

Note Family: Herbal, Bitter, Green

Texture: Piercing, sharp, dry, volatile

Emotion: Stimulating, bracing, slightly unnerving

Analogy: Crushed alpine herbs, tincture of absinthe, medicinal tonic

Arctander Tag (paraphrased): "Very powerful, bitter-aromatic odor, reminiscent of cedarleaf and thuja, with a dry-herbal aftertone."